Drawing a tapered strap pattern

The strap looks fine on the bench. Then you hold it against the watch and one side bows out, the buckle end is wide and clumsy, or the two halves don't match. Some of these faults can start at the pattern. A paper template costs nothing to redo, and leather does.

What tapers, and why

A tapered strap is wider at the lugs and narrower at the buckle. One maker's tutorial makes a strap for a 22mm lug width that tapers down to 20mm at the buckle, for a modern look and more comfortable wear¹. So the taper in that example is a 2mm drop from end to end.

That's one example. Your own numbers come from measuring. The lug width isn't something to eyeball and estimate², so use the figure from the measuring page, not a guess.

Drawing the template

You need paper, a pencil and a metal ruler. Plain paper is fine for a first draft.

• Draw a straight centre line down the length of the paper.
• At one end, mark half your lug width either side of the line. That's the lug end.
• At the other end, mark half your chosen buckle width either side.
• Join the two pairs of marks with a ruler. You now have a long tapered shape.
• Mark where the spring bar will sit at the lug end, and where the buckle will sit at the other.

Keep the two sides symmetrical, and check them against each other by folding the paper along the centre line.

Lengths for a two-part strap

Some buckle straps are made in two pieces, one that carries the buckle and one that carries the holes. For a two-piece strap, measure both parts separately and add them together for the total length³. The same source says to check fit by measuring the minimum and maximum length, and to avoid using the first or last hole³. Plan the hole range on the template, with your wrist size in the middle.

Allow for layers

If your strap has a lining, the shape changes when you fold and glue. The maker above notes that forming the outer leather around a core requires extra allowance, so they cut the final shape after gluing the two sides together¹. If you're making a lined strap, plan an allowance for the core and cut the final shape after the two sides are glued, as the maker did.

Transferring and cutting

A good template is only half the job. The cut has to follow it.

Tandy's advice for cutting is short and specific⁴.

• Place the leather grain side up on a cutting mat.
• Mark your cut line using a ruler or template.
• Keep the blade vertical, and use smooth, steady strokes.
• For thick leather, make several light passes instead of one deep cut.

Cut along the marked line, then check the width against your measured lug width before fitting.

The maker's method also starts the same way. They cut out the leather pieces according to the design pattern and make alignment markings to help build the strap¹. Marks at the spring bar position and the buckle end save guesswork later.

Once the shape is cut, the ends need thinning before they'll fold neatly. That's covered in skiving and thinning the ends.