Fitting the buckle and spring bars

The buckle swings loose, a spring bar pops out, or the holes land where the prong doesn't want to go. Fitting is the last step, and it's where a good strap can still go wrong. Slow down. Work on a cloth, and do the buckle before the holes.

The parts of a buckle

A buckle has a frame, a chape, a bar and a prong. Wikipedia lists them as the four main components¹. The prong is the pin that goes through a hole. In ordinary buckles, it fits through the buckle to secure the material at a pre-set length¹. The bar holds the chape and prong to the frame¹.

One maker's tutorial folds the buckle end of the strap to make a loop for the buckle spring bar². The same step secures the fixed keeper². Your strap's folded, thinned end is what slides onto the bar. If it won't go, go back to the skiving page.

Punching the holes

Do this last. The maker's tutorial punches the adjustment holes at the very end². That way, you're not working round holes while you stitch.

Where should the holes go? WatchGecko's fit check uses the strap's minimum and maximum length. The minimum runs from the top of the strap to the first hole, and the maximum to the last hole³. Its advice is to stay off the end holes, for durability and comfort³. So spread the holes so your wrist lands in the middle of the run, not at an end. The measuring page shows how to get your wrist figure.

Test your punch on an offcut. Check that the prong passes through the test hole without force.

Putting the strap on the watch

This section covers a watch with spring bars. Work from the back of the watch, to keep scratches off the face⁴.

• Lay down a soft cloth or mousepad as your work area⁵. iFixit says a soft towel or fabric helps prevent accidental scratches⁴.
• Put the watch face down on the cloth⁵.
• Seat one end of the strap's spring bar in a lug hole.
• Use a spring bar tool to press the other end in, and slide it into the opposite lug hole until you hear it snap into place⁵.
• Repeat on the other side.

iFixit's guide inserts the tool into the gap between the end of the strap and the watch body⁴. It also warns you to be careful not to put the new strap on the wrong side of the watch⁴. With a tapered strap, mixing up the ends is an easy mistake, so check which end has the buckle before you begin.

Check it's locked

The spring bar should click when it's installed correctly⁴. Don't stop at the click. Give the watch a tug to make sure all parts are installed correctly⁴. Do this over your cloth, not over a hard floor, in case a bar was only half seated.

If your watch isn't the usual type

Not every watch uses plain spring bars. Nixon notes that screw bars use screws to secure the strap to the lugs, whereas spring bars use springs⁵. Quick-release straps have a small button on the strap's underside⁵. A handmade strap with its own bars won't suit every case, so check your watch's manual or the maker's page for how its bars come out.

If you can't get a bar to seat after a few tries, stop. Forcing it can mark the lug or bend the pin.