Finishing the edges of a watch strap

The edge of the strap is fuzzy, or it's furry in one spot and glossy in another. Fresh-cut leather looks like that. Tandy says raw, cut edges can look rough and are more prone to fraying or wearing down¹. Finishing fixes both problems.

Pick a finish

A maker's tutorial lists the main choices: raw, burnished, painted or folded². The same maker says raw or burnished edges are a good choice for tool watches but aren't suitable for dress watches². The same maker calls edge creasing an elegant way to highlight edges with a decorative line². So the watch itself helps you choose.

Burnishing

Burnishing is rubbing the edge so it turns smooth and glossy. Tandy says it uses friction to compress and smooth the leather fibers, creating a sealed, glossy edge¹. Do the bevel first.

Step one: bevel

Beveling shaves the sharp corners off the edge. Hold the edge beveler at a consistent angle along the edge, and pull it firmly and smoothly in one motion¹. Do both sides of the edge. Tandy's advice is to bevel before dyeing or burnishing for the cleanest finish¹. Skip it and the edges stay sharp and harder to burnish¹.

Step two: burnish

You have two hand methods.

• A wooden or plastic slicker, rubbed along the edge¹.
• Canvas cloth wrapped round the edge and rubbed for extra heat and smoothness¹.

Tandy's slicker method is used after applying water, gum tragacanth or Tokonole¹. Don't over-wet the edge. Follow the label on whichever product you use, work somewhere with fresh air, and keep it away from children.

Start with light pressure and increase as the edge begins to shine¹. Pressing hard too early is how rough spots appear.

Step three: seal

Beeswax gives a natural, sealed surface¹. Buff afterwards with a soft cloth.

Painting instead

The maker applies paint carefully with an awl and levels it with sandpaper². Layers of painting, sanding and polishing result in a smooth, glossy finish². It takes time.

Read the label and safety data sheet for the paint before you open it. Work with ventilation, wear gloves if the sheet says so, and store the pot and any solvent where children can't reach.

Creased edges

Some straps get a decorative line near the edge. Edge creasing is done with a heated iron, pressed into the leather². A heated iron can burn you, so let it cool fully before you put it away.

Mistakes that ruin edges

Tandy lists three.

• Skipping beveling, which leaves edges sharp and harder to burnish¹.
• Over-wetting the edge, which can weaken fibers and prevent proper sealing¹.
• Using dull tools, which causes tearing instead of clean shaving or burnishing¹.

Check the edge before you fit the strap. Run a fingertip along it. If you feel a rough patch, burnish that spot again lightly. Once it feels smooth, the strap is ready for its buckle.